Alyssa and Katherine go to Diourbel

During the Artisan Expo Alyssa, Tamar, and I put in orders for wooden, "traditional", Senegalese chairs. The artist works in Diourbel which is 25km east of me. We sat in the chairs and described the coloring we wanted and the complete lack of a design EXCEPT we wanted "Corps de la Paix 2009-2011" on the bottom of the chairs. We wrote it all out and had a long conversation about how we needed to get the chairs by the 18th. Everything was agreed upon, we shook hands, and paid the down payment (half).

Everyday last week I called the artist and he seemed to be making great progress. He was sure he would be able to get all 6 chairs done for us to take on the 18th. When I called Thursday he said they would be done after 5pm. When I called Friday they would be done before noon!

Today Alyssa and I (because Tamar has already returned to the glorious America) met in Diourbel. We called the artist and he said to stop by after lunch. We ate lunch at pretty much the only restaurant in Diourbel and had bad sandwiches. Afterwards we went to the "artist village" which is a bunch of half build buildings and is 95% jewelery makers. After rounding several corners and following the sound of axes we found the wood working section... and we found an entire wood posse making our chairs! There were other people making other chairs which, it appears, you do by hacking away with an ax at a piece of wood then sanding a ton. All 6 of our chairs were being sanded by Mamadou (the artist), his father, and his brothers who ranged from in their 20s to 6 years old. The 6 year old was sanding a chair piece that was actually bigger than him. Mamadou gave us two other chairs to sit in away from the action in what seemed to be the pee corner... like where you go if you need to pee... or at least that's what it smelled like. Eventually he brought over a bottle of Sprite with two glasses for us which was really nice of him, we each drank a glass not to be rude then spent about 30 minutes trying to call over the 6 year old. Eventually he took the Sprite and shared it with the entire posse.

Once the sanding was done Mamadou came over with the bottoms of the chair (where we wanted the carvings) and asked us to write what we wanted. After writing it on one he took a chisel and started hacking away. We then wrote it on all of the bottoms and he hacked away at all of them. While they were varnishing/tinting the chairs with shoe polish Alyssa and I took a stroll around the market to get empty rice sacks to put our chairs in. When we came back we were able to take in the full multi-generational scene that seems to be the Diourbel artist village. It seems like under 10 years old you're allowed to sand and carry things. Once you're over 10 you're allowed to swing an ax uncontrollably at a log. 10-15 it looks like you can hack away at the big pieces and older than 15 you're doing the more artistic hacking, the finishing touches if you will.

Once our chairs were finished we paid for the rest and were on our way! Mamadou put us in a cab to the garage where Alyssa and I parted ways (until post-America time!). I got into my "mini-bus" which is an old conversion van with WAY too many seats. We left Diourbel with 19 people in the car and my chair pieces (they break down into 2 pieces) in an open rice sack on the roof. I spent the first half of the ride watching for chair pieces to fly off the roof and impale donkeys on the side of the road. Once we hit the halfway point I got distracted - the door next to me flew open while we were driving but NO WORRIES! it was closed again. Then, 10km, from Bambey we loaded up with people... by my count we had 21 people in the car and 5 people hanging off the back.

I'm back safely (with all of the chair pieces) and the chairs fit into my suitcase! I have 1 last girls' group meeting tomorrow. Monday I'm off to Dakar and to America Tuesday - send positive thoughts about the weather to New York and Chicago!

KO