Sunday, November 8, 2009

Apparently I'm secretly a health volunteer...

... because I ended up, accidentally, at another AIDS meeting. I went to sit with Awa like I do everyday and today she wasn't roasting peanuts, she was hosting a meeting about AIDS. I stayed because I didn't have anything else to do and because every time I can hear people speaking Wolof without the stress of figuring out what they're saying and responding it helps.

Other than that my Sunday was pretty uneventful: I cleaned my room and semi-mopped the floor, then I read, then learned how to cook yassa (rice with a vinegar-y onion sauce), wrote some emails, read some more, worked on my Wolof, and went to the AIDS meetings. I like using my Sundays to relax. I realize that doesn't make my Sundays different from most days and that it isn't like I really have a choice - everything's closed Sunday's so, as of now, that means no meetings to go to. I like acting like it's a conscious choice though - Ah, nice work Katherine/Fatou#1, a relaxing Sunday! Way to clear the schedule!

Two quick things from the week that I've left out:
The other day I was leaving to go to a meeting and two 10-12 year old girls came up to me and greeted me, asked how I was, where I was going and that sort of thing. Aside from the fact that it drives me nuts when kids laugh when I speak Wolof to them (yeah, I get it, I have an accent, don't be jerks kids), the conversation was going pretty well. Then one of them said (in French), "hey! give me money! give me money!" and they followed me down the street saying that... ohh that drives me CRAZY so I turned really abruptly like I was going to chase them or grab them or something (I obviously was not going to, I wasn't that mad) and they ran away. It was awesome.

I'm looking for names for my new pet lizard. Better yet, I'm looking for ways to get rid of my new pet lizard. I really don't want to get a cat but today I saw a mouse downstairs. I keep all of my food and trash in buckets with lids (and my food is also in ziplock bags in those buckets) but if a mouse gets up here I'm getting a cat. I've only seen the lizard once (and it was not in my bed) but it's a good sized lizard.

That's all for now, here's hoping my meetings happen this week!
KO

Saturday, November 7, 2009

luckily Miss can sense my future mood...

Miss is the woman who cooks every meal in our house and she seems to have the ability of knowing (even before I do) when I'm going to have a crappy day and cooking an amazing meal, but let's start at the beginning:

Before going to bed last night I checked with my hfdad that the mayor would be there tomorrow morning.. no she wouldn't be but her 2nd in command gets there at 10am! This morning I woke up, drank my coffee, ate my oatmeal, and read the news like normal. Around 10:30am I left to go to the mayor's office... to both my surprise and not, it was closed and the door was locked. When I got home and said to my hfmom (in Wolof) "I went but it was closed" she responded "well of course, the mayor's office isn't open on the weekend, try again Monday." For those of you familiar with the book Catch-22 there's a character, I forget the details, but he doesn't want to meet with anyone so he tells his secretary to tell people he's not there when he's there and to wait for him when he's not there so the people get frustrated and leave... I'm starting to feel like that about the Mayor but I will not be foiled... I am going to meet with her if it takes me 2 years (but only 2 years)!

I hung around the house for most of the afternoon, I looked at some artisan stuff, read a little, did some sudoku, practiced my Wolof, and I prepped for my second meeting of the afternoon. Convinced to not lose another meeting to Senegal I prepared extensively. I knew that for the most part what was on my agenda wouldn't happen but I wanted to be ready. Today's second meeting was with the theater guy, someone my hfdad put me in touch who wants to do community theater. He and I had a long conversation about how theater is important for the youth and for telling the history - I was really jazzed about this second meeting today. I'd consulted with a friend from NYU, I'd written and introduction in French, I'd translated 2 theater games in French... I was ready to go.

Around 4:45 I left for the meeting and I ran into the theater guy on the way. We got to the meeting and he said "oh, I told everyone to come at 5:30" (even though he and I had discussed the meeting starting at 5) not a problem, we're making lemonade! People start showing up and I'm noticing that everyone looks ... older... I'm not talking retirement home old, but let's say at least above 26... not what I would consider "youth". Then almost everyone disappears around 5:30... where have they gone? Why! To find speakers so we can dance. Okay, that's fine. At this point I've already gotten rid of the games off of my agenda so dancing is a good way to get everyone pumped up and excited. Eventually the search of speakers ends and the meeting starts without speakers. We talk about what I want to do and I continually insist that I'm just there to help them and it's their stories to tell. They decide to put on a cultural variety show with acting, dancing, singing, rap, drums, you name it, if it's Senegalese cultural performance - it's there! I'm getting back to being excited, yeah, this is what I'm talking about, get the youth excited in culture and theater! Get everyone proud!

Oh and it's going to cost 200,000 CFA (about $450)(100,000 of it was going to their group). Oh. Then it hit... ohhh.... so I asked "where are you going to get the money from? do you usually charge an entrance fee?" "no" "do you have that money?" and they said "no," and looked at me. "Well, I don't have the money." And boy did that sure shock them all! "What are you here for? What's your job?" asked someone, so I tried to explain but was too flustered to speak in French, I couldn't even form the words in English. "Speak English. I translate," said the (supposed) English teacher who'd been speaking to me in English all night and making HUGE grammar and vocab errors. Well, that was what broke the dam, shall we say, and the French came pouring out. I'm not exactly sure what I said but I'm pretty sure I said something like: I'm a volunteer, I'm not a bank. I'm here to help and to teach and to consult. I'm here to give advice, and to give classes, to help organize, I don't have money to give. The Peace Corps isn't a NGO, we're not World Vision of USAID, we don't give money, we teach and we help in other ways. I can work with you to get the money, I can help you with that but I'm not a bank."

The meeting was wrapped up pretty quickly and even though we decided to "work together to find the money" I have a feeling this project isn't getting very far off the ground which I'm fine with because it wasn't the type of theater I was looking to do.

I got home frustrated because, even though I know this is going to happen a lot, I never led them on at all that I had any money and I HATE being asked for money like that, it's not polite. Senegalese kids don't walk up to Senegalese people and ask them for money (I'm not talking about beggars, I'm talking about regular kids). Today was just a magnification of what's wrong with all of this. Anyway, I got home and just wanted to go to my room (my appetite was kind of ruined and I'm not that hungry ever anyway, it's too hot). Miss apparently knew I was going to be frustrated and down because we had Moroccan couscous with raisins, onion sauce, and a TON of chicken! It was awesome. Now I have a full (of delicious food) stomach and I'm in a much better mood.

I also made a new friend today. You can guess her name.

Ba suba,
KO

Friday, November 6, 2009

two posts, one day? it was that kind of day.

The rest of my day wrapped up with me taking photos of Matar's bags for the artisan expo in December(check the album) and sitting with Awa. I haven't mentioned it yet but my Senegalese name (give to me by my counterpart) is Fatou - I don't love it, I don't hate it but it gets the job done a million times better than Katherine and most people don't realize I have another name. Anyway, back to today. While I was sitting with Awa (a woman who my ancienne was friend's with so I'm trying to sit with her or her family once a day) while she roasted peanuts I made some new friends! My first new friend is a student at the private high school, she thinks I'm pretty and she wants me to get a weave - her name is Fatou. My second new friend was buying peanuts from Awa - her name is Fatou. My third new friend was riding in a horse-pulled cart down the street - her name is Fatou. Once Fatou #2 (in this story I'm Fatou #1) realized we shared the same name, she started calling out to other Fatous for us all to be best friends. I, personally, think we should start a band.

Ba suba,
KO

1 point Senegal

So three quick things:

1. I went to the Mayor's office last week to set up a meeting but was told she's only there on the weekends. I left my phone number (as I was told to do) and explained that I was going to Thies for the day that Saturday (Halloween) but would be back and would love to have a meeting the next weekend (tomorrow). Today I stopped by again, having not received a phone call and had this conversation:
KO- Hi, I wanted to see if I have a meeting with the Mayor.
Guy- Well, you were gone.
KO- Right, do I have one for this weekend? For tomorrow?
Guy- You were in Thies, you've come back? ....
Keep in mind I was standing in front of him...

2. I went searching for my counterpart two days ago from her house to the prefect's office who then told me she was at a meeting in the building next to the mosque... at first I was pretty annoyed because there are at least 5 mosques within 2 blocks of my house and probably 25 mosques, at least, in Bambey... she's next to the mosque - what kind of crazy directions are those? Then I realized I was actually totally aware of the building they were talking about... one point for Senegal on this one.

3. Today I saw a guy wearing a shirt that said (in English) "I (heart with a cancer ribbon) BOOBS" then the back said "CHECK THEM OR I'LL DO IT FOR YOU" and had some college's name on it.... I'm guessing he didn't know what the shirt said. Oh but as far as shirts in English go, I don't think anything will top the shirt I saw outside of Dakar (keep in mind it's a Muslim country) "Gay? Fine by me!" there's NO way that guy knew what that shirt said.

That's all for now!
KO

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Bambey, every day

So the last few days have been productive but mostly uneventful. My counterpart has been taking me to meet people and everyone seems really excited to do work. I know that doesn't mean they're actually excited to do the work but it's nice to have a whole wide range of possibilities.

A few days ago my hfdad told me that his sister's husband had died and then didn't bring it up again so I let it slide to the back of my mind. Then last night I saw my hfsisters plucking chickens and I got really excited, chicken for dinner! Awesome! Then people started arriving at my house. By the time dinner (two chickens) was served there were 14 of us - not that I'm complaining most volunteers never get chicken. I was starting to realize it probably had something to do with the death so I made sure I got up early this morning, put on Senegalese clothes, and went downstairs. I found my hfmom and asked, quite bluntly and very un-Senegalese (but there are somethings you just can't beat around the bush) "what's going on? why is everyone here?" She explained how 3 days after a death everyone gets together to offer prayers but that wouldn't be happening at our house! They would be going to the sisters house! They would just be eating lunch here.

By the time I got my bean sandwich and came back everyone was up and starting to get moving for the day... then more people started showing up. I'm not really sure what was happening at our house and what was happening at the other house, but around lunch (we had chicken again) there were about 30-50 people here. But backing up a little...
I'm a big fan of helping in the kitchen, not only because I enjoy cooking and grew up helping in the kitchen, but I feel like it also earns me points with the women in the family as well as helps me with my Wolof a little. Almost every Senegalese dish involves onions which is a task that I had previously been forbidden from because (mom and all the mom's out there reading this blog don't freak out) the Senegalese way to cut an onion goes against everything I was ever taught about kitchen safety. You basically let the peeled onions sit in water when you're not dicing them (so they're slippery and wet when you pick them up) then you hold the onion in your left hand and, with a horribly dull, flimsy knife, you slice towards your other hand to make cuts across the onion, then you slice through the onion, again towards your hand. Obviously, the first time I tried I cut my finger and have since been forbidden from helping. I was given easier tasks like pounding spices until today when I was DETERMINED to actually help. I explained (mostly through gestures) that if I could use a flat surface, I could cut the onions and they let me! A small step for cooking but a large step for me gaining respect, or at least not seeming like a total idiot, with the women!

Other than that I've been a bad family member and I've been kind of hiding in my room for most of the day. My language skills still aren't good enough to even follow a conversation and there isn't really much to do. I've started studying for the LSAT, we'll see how that progresses. Oh, speaking of language skills, I was able to say "I'm tired so I'm going to go drink coffee" that was really awesome.

And in one last bit of news, I think I made my hfmom amazingly happy today because I was hungry. Yep. I didn't even do anything, just be hungry, but she was so happy she was telling everyone. I'm guessing it's because I rarely eat a ton ever and the fact that today, I was hungry, made her overjoyed. So excited she walked up next to me and said "she's hungry!" and patted my butt/side.

That's it for Bambey, tomorrow I'm supposed to see the schools. Oh, one more thing, I REALLY can't wait until I can speak Wolof because I think my hfmom's pissed she has to cook dinner for everyone, I think that's what she was muttering about to some of the other women, but I'm not sure and I wish I knew!

KO

Monday, November 2, 2009

Timing...

Today started out pretty uneventful, I had things I wanted to get done but nothing set. My hostdad, however, has decided it's time for me to start working (something I'm mostly fine with) and planned a busy morning. I had a really long, great conversation about the importance of theater and its role in Senegalese culture. The friend who we were talking to, an inspector at the school and someone who has his own theater troupe (we'll see as far as that goes this Saturday), explained because Senegalese history is an oral history, retelling history is really important to keep it alive. Even more so because when the French came they reorganized and rewrote (mostly just ignored) Senegalese history. There are still remnants in some pretty recent texts on African history, a discipline that is kind of being re-discovered because so much of it had been ignored before. All of this got me really excited to get something going, not that I wasn't before, but I had no idea what the potential benefit would be and now it's starting to form. I have a friend from freshman year who gave me some great advice on community theater, they have to put on a show about what they care about, which is kind of how I feel about all of my work - it could be the best project there is but I can't be the only one invested in it. The friend said he'd call the troupe together for a meeting this Saturday.... which is when I was brought back to reality:
Friend: What time Saturday works for you? 3pm?
KO: Um, whatever time works best for you... I'm always here.
Friend: So 3pm? 4pm?
KO: (thinking if we say 3 it won't start until 4) Yeah. 3pm.
Friend: oooohhhhhhh I don't think the Senegalese (he's Senegalese) will come, it's hot then.
KO: Ok.... 4pm?
Friend: It's still really hot. What about 5pm?
KO: yeah. that's works.

So that kicked off what today's theme seemed to be "timing."

Next my hostdad took me to the high school because I'm trying to set up correspondence with a sociology class at my old high school and a teacher I'm paired with through the Peace Corps World Wide Schools system (basically I was given a penpal class and they want to talk to Senegalese people too). So my hostdad and I walk into the principal's office (walking ahead of the huge line of students of course).
Secretary: He's really busy.
hfdad: hmmmmmmm....
Sct: Look at all the students.
hfdad: hmmmmmm
Sct: can you come back this afternoon?
hfdad: hmmmmmm we're here now.
Sct: ok after these two girls you can go in.

Obviously if it was just me I would have believed him when he said "come back this afternoon" (a habit I need to break) so thankfully my hfdad was there to get me in to see the Principal. A quick note on that, if my ancienne (the girl who was here before me) is reading, thank you SO SO SO SO MUCH. Not only do I have patron living conditions but Mor (my hfdad) is really invested in helping me and he's taken me around to meet people and summoned people to our house. You are amazing, you have an outstanding reputation here (which is why I don't mind when people call me by your name). Thank you.

The rest of my day followed pretty normally: lunch, some internet time, talked with Matar about what he's selling at the upcoming Artisan Expo, hung out with the family that runs the boutique that sells killer bean sandwiches (unfortunately I'm not a morning person and usually miss out), came home, sat with the family, watched some Mexican soap opera, ate dinner, and came to my room.

Overall, a good day in Bambey (that could be because I also ate some donuts aka fried millet balls but they're really good)! Tomorrow I start wolof tutoring we'll see how it goes!

Ba suba,
KO

Sunday, November 1, 2009

The first step is admitting you have a problem...

So here I go: I have a cereal problem that I really have no interesting in stopping, in fact, I just want to keep feeding the problem (yeah, I had to make that joke). Seriously! Even though the cereal I have access to is nowhere close to a wondrous US cereal aisle, it's so amazing for every meal: breakfast - cereal, didn't feel like ceeb u jeen for lunch - cereal, had to take your malaria medicine and didn't want rice and beans for dinner - CEREAL! Unfortunately it's a habit that is currently unsustainable: I can't get cereal in Bambey (well I can but at this point I'm not willing to pay the RIDICULOUS PRICES), so I'm suck gorging myself on cereal every time I go to Thies and practically buy out the store (but I bet there's some solution that involves US cereal... maybe the mail..? kidding!).

Now that that's out of the way, on to my day:
I woke up kind of early (that's a lie around 7am) to catch some of the super late halloween people on their way back in and was able to exchange a few texts with some (who will remain nameless). I, obviously, went back to bed around 7:30 because I didn't really have a plan for the day and I see no fault in making up for the sleep I lost in college! Anyway, around 8:30 I finally got out of bed and weighted my breakfast options (go get a bean sandwich, eat oatmeal, eat cereal... guess what I choose). My hostmom is REALLY big on me sweeping my room on Sundays but, figuring I didn't have any meetings for the day, I thought I would go the extra mile so I actually cleaned and mopped my room. Don't be fooled, there aren't mops here, I filled a bucket with dish soap and water, got a rag, and got on my hands and knees and cleaned the floor. It didn't actually take that long (you can see from the photos I kind of only have two strips of floor, so I showered and gave all of my dishes an intense cleaning. I then looked up the word for "to clean" in Wolof (so I could explain to my host family why I came downstairs at 10:30am not earlier) and went to really start the day.

I have an hfsister who's visiting for a while and BOY is she chatty. She's really about me learning Wolof (like everyone in my hfamily) so she only speaks in Wolof and refuses to explain herself in a language I can understand. She then proceeded to try to pry out every detail about my life in the US which only creates for more awkward conversation given the topic and the language barrier. Afterwards the president of the youth sports and culture association showed up at my house (I guess my hfdad had seen him on the street and sent him to find me). I was able to talk to him about what projects I might be able to get involved in and what they're doing/what they want to do. It was a great conversation to be able to understand the organization a little better and to get to know their priorities (soccer) so I can figure out if/where my work could fit in.

Afterwards it was lunch (which I pushed rice around until I had the guts to say I was full and go upstairs and eat cereal). I wrote everything I had learned from the ASC (association of sports and culture) kid and went to take photos of my house. They're up, by the way, so do enjoy them! After uploading the photos I went to sit with my family. I'm not sure how many of you are aware of the TV series "Full House" (anyone my age better be), but the annoying next door neighbor/best friend of the oldest sister, DJ, is the neighbor "Kimmy" who everyone else finds to be annoying. I'm pretty sure I have a "Kimmy" in my life. There's this girl that is friends with my youngest hfsister and always seems to be around. The other day she followed me into the boutique and made fun of me while I tried to ask for salt (it's "sel" in French and I was saying "sol"). Then today she came over and, while I was sitting there, told the story to my hfamily. Obviously the story was in Wolof but I knew what she was talking about because she kept saying "she said sugar, she said sugar, but she wanted salt" over and over again. And then she detailed my other purchases... I'm not sure how many times she sees people go to boutiques and buy salt, an egg, and a pack of biskrem. What bothers me even more than her making fun of me while I was there, was that she didn't know I understood her and I couldn't think of a good enough response. I struggled for about 10 minutes trying to figure out how to say "I wasn't asking for sugar, I was asking for salt. I didn't say the word sugar" but then I let it go. I really can't wait for the day that I'm good enough for people to not talk about me while I'm sitting there (that alone is motivation enough to learn Wolof, if not for the work reasons).

The rest of the day continued without much excitement (my hfamily wasn't mad that I didn't eat dinner with them... I was saving room for cereal). After dinner, however, I had a really good conversation with my hfdad ranging from Wolof words, to health problems in Senegal, to problems to ASC has and what I can do to help. We discussed about how they're supposed to do cultural things and more sports than soccer but how they just play soccer. I told him I was maybe interested in doing some theater if there is interest (it's one of the thing they're supposed to do). He explained how a while back they used to play basketball, handball, and soccer as well as have theater competitions and cultural discussions. It's hard not to jump right in but I know it's important to wait and really assess the situation first. But I'm trying my hardest to be patient and observe!

The night's ending with cereal, some gatorade, and talking to family on the phone (which is always amazing)! Tomorrow I'm hopefully going to the high school to introduce myself as well as to meet the teacher who works with the American Club there. Supposedly one of my neighbors works for the schools (he's some sort of inspector/teacher watcher person?) and he's interested in getting a theater group together so I might get to meet him too. We'll see!

Happy November Everyone!
KO